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  • Top 5 Wrong Questions Home Buyers ask Home Inspectors

    Top 5 Wrong Questions Home Buyers ask Home Inspectors

    Top 5 Wrong Questions Home Buyers ask Home Inspectors

     

    A home inspection is a vital part of the home buying process that shouldn’t be glossed over or taken lightly. This is the best opportunity the buyer has to really go through the home with a fine-toothed comb to learn about what they’re buying. While the quick emotional decisions of a home purchase can be very stressful, the home inspection is a time to slow things down and think. The home inspector can teach the buyer some of the details about the home’s components, how to maintain them to get the most out of your home, and how to look for problems and address them before they cost a lot of money. They can also spot issues with some of the big-ticket items that can make buyers re-think their purchase or re-negotiate the price.

     

    But a lot of home buyers approach the home inspection with the wrong mindset and ask the home inspector the wrong questions. Here are our top 5 examples of wrong questions that home buyers ask inspectors.

     

    #5 How long will my (roof, furnace, air conditioner or hot water heater) last?

    Your home inspector can’t predict the future or the conditions that will affect the performance of the home’s components. But they can give you some useful information about the condition of these components. If there is something damaged, improperly installed, or if the component has deteriorated due to normal wear and tear and is near the end of its useful life, the inspector can provide you with that information. There may be maintenance tasks that can help to keep the item functioning longer than it would otherwise.  But there have been roofs that look perfect but develop leaks quicker than you might think, and roofs that look terrible but don’t leak. Electrical heaters or furnaces, for example, may never show a sign of distress until they stop working. We can’t always tell.

     

    #4 Should I Buy the House (Or Would You Buy This House)?

    One inspector I know answers “Would you buy this house?” with “No” every time. He then goes on to explain that he has a house and doesn’t need another one. Your inspector won’t know a home’s value in the current market, or your lifestyle needs. Ultimately, it’s a question you have to answer yourself. If you need someone to help find the answer, you should talk to your realtor. Then there’s the question of your financial situation, and that’s a conversation to have with your mortgage lender.  The information the Home Inspector provides during the inspection is useful for these conversations- the condition of the home will affect its value. The repairs needed will impact whether you can afford it over the long term and if you plan to make those repairs yourself you’ll want an idea of how much work there is to do. But the inspector won’t have all of that information and shouldn’t advise you to buy or not to buy.

    Another question along this line is “Is it a good house?”. How can we answer that? When my wife and I moved to Guelph we bought a home that had run into disrepair. In the first six months we removed an abandoned oil tank, replaced the 60 year old boiler (hot water heat), upgraded the main electrical panel and rewired a significant part of the house. The roof will be replaced in the next month or so and since there is no air conditioning we’ll be looking at installing something before summer.  The interior is outdated and we’ll probably work our way through the house repainting walls, replacing old cabinets, and replacing the kitchen and bathroom floors. Other people would think this is a disaster, but the house is solid and fits our needs. So, what’s a good house? It depends on what you want. A home inspector shouldn’t make a judgement about whether the house is good or not. They should give you as much information about the home as possible, so that you can make that determination for yourself.

     

    #3 Should the Windows/Doors/Insulation be Upgraded?

    When we report issues with a house or its components, we try to separate them into categories that should help you decide whether or not something is a priority. Some are safety issues that you should pay attention to. An example of this is a gas furnace that is showing signs that the heat exchanger is compromised. This can result in carbon monoxide entering the living space and a life-threatening situation developing. There are building code issues that are also safety issues. Although home inspectors are typically not “to-code” inspectors and won’t necessarily criticize older installations that are not to current code, these items are in the code for good reasons. Requiring Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI) electrical receptacles near sinks in bathrooms and kitchens is a code/safety issue you should pay attention to.

    Then there are issues that can cost a lot of money. If a roof is nearing the end of its life, you have a choice. Is it better to wait until you absolutely have to replace it, or is it better to replace it before it leaks and starts to damage your possessions and the rest of the home? Is it better to replace a heating system before it stops providing heat, or wait until it stops? Each of these are a decision that you can delay, but the consequences of waiting can cost a lot.

    Most home inspectors also give you a list of other items that 1) may require some maintenance 2) have small issues that could be repaired to work better or extend the life of the component or 3) will perform better if replaced/upgraded. Windows, doors, and insulation fall into this category. Old drafty windows are inefficient and will increase your heating and/or air conditioning costs. More insulation can help you save money as well. But these items may have been perfectly acceptable when they were installed- just not up to the current standards. A decision on whether to upgrade involves more than a home inspector’s opinion. A consultation with an energy advisor would be more helpful.

    Having said that, most home inspectors, especially those with infrared cameras, can give some advice/direction where your house is leaky or where insulation may be missing. Small things like improving the seal around window and door frames with caulking or weather-stripping can go a long way to stop heat loss through air flow and make the home more energy efficient.

     

    #2 Will the basement leak?

    This is a question, similar to #5, that depends on a lot of factors. Weather conditions, what happens to the soil around the foundation (eg digging a garden bed right up against the wall) and activities of the inhabitants etc. I saw one house that had a crawl space full of water (and mold). It turned out that a rain barrel that normally discharged across a laneway when it overflowed, had been turned so the discharge was toward the home.  That was enough to change the conditions dramatically. But an inspector can’t see into the future to tell you these things will happen. We can only suggest things that will help to reduce the chance they will happen. On the other hand, if there are signs that there has been leakage through the foundation in the past, we will be sure to point it out and suggest some changes that can reduce the chance of reoccurrence. How a lot is graded, condition of eaves troughs and downspouts, and the condition of sidewalks and driveways can all be factors that can be improved to direct water away from the house.

     

    #1 How Much Do You Charge for an Inspection?

    Okay, before you roll your eyes hear me out. I have no problem with anyone shopping around for the best value. But if you’re basing your decision on which inspector costs the least, you have a problem.

    In today’s market you’re going to be spending close to half a million dollars or more on your home. Do you really want to trust that decision on information you get from the cheapest inspector you can find? For what? To save 50 bucks?

    The cost of the inspection isn’t the thing you should be asking your inspector about. You should be asking about their background, how they got to be a Home Inspector, training, experience, association membership, standards of practise, code of ethics and in Ontario, soon you can ask about licensing. Ask about the report, photos and how it will be delivered.  You want to find an inspector who will take the time and do a thorough job, communicate clearly and in a detailed report. Finally, you want to know if you can go with the inspector during the inspection to ask questions and have the issues explained directly. If you’re not there, you’ll miss half of the benefit of having an inspection.

    I think you should take the time to interview the inspectors to see who communicates best with you and you trust most to do the kind of job you want. Then if you find several you are comfortable with, start asking about pricing. Chances are, the fees won’t be too different anyway. I can guarantee that GoldEye Home Inspection isn’t the most or least expensive company around. But if there is an inspector who charges significantly less than most other inspectors, you might want to ask yourself why would that be? And if there’s an inspector who is drastically more expensive than the others, ask the same question. The reason might be related to the quality of their work and subsequent demand for their services.

     

    Buying a home is a big decision and the money involved can be staggering. That alone is reason enough to get a home inspection, and to find a good home inspector. But the issues that are typically found in a home inspection can haunt you for many years as you live in the home if not addressed at an appropriate time. Finding the right home inspector and using the information gained from the inspection in the right way can make a huge difference in how the home works for you.

     

    Steven Schroeder 2018-01-01

     

  • How to House Hunt Like a Home Inspector -Plumbing

    How to House Hunt Like a Home Inspector -Plumbing

    How to House Hunt Like a Home Inspector -Plumbing

     

     

    In this installment of “House Hunt Like a Home Inspector”, we’re looking at the home’s plumbing system. This series talks about how prospective home buyers can use the perspective of a home inspector to get to know the house better before they buy.  See other posts at www.http://goldeyehi.ca/blog/

    When looking at the home’s plumbing system, we are really interested in three things: 1) Does the water supply provide the occupants with sufficient hot and cold water to satisfy their lifestyle? 2) Does the waste plumbing system remove waste water and human waste effectively? and 3) Does everything stay where it is supposed to? It can be hard to really assess these while house hunting. There are limits to what you can tell about the water supply and waste plumbing effectiveness during a walk-through. But there are some simple things you can do to get a sense of how the plumbing system is working.

    Let’s start by considering whether the water supply and waste disposal systems are public or private. This is important to know before you buy the home because it will affect the how much work will be required to maintain both the water supply and the waste disposal systems. Typically, urban homes have public water supply and waste disposal systems that require very little in the way of maintenance for the home owner. But the more remote the property is, the more important it is to understand how you get your water and how you get rid of the waste. Private water supply systems (usually from wells) will have pumps, filters, pressure regulators and all will require some maintenance. Waste handling systems may be holding tanks or septic fields that allow much (but not all) of the waste to degrade and seep away into the ground. I can’t stress enough how important it is to have these systems inspected by qualified well and septic system inspectors. They are complex systems that can cause a lot of headaches if not working properly. You should also look for and read the maintenance guides to ensure you do all that you can to keep them working properly.

    I said that urban homes require little in the way of maintenance of the water supply and waste removal systems outside the home. There is an exception that you can look out for before you enter the home. Large trees can be very desirable, providing shade and beauty to the neighborhood. But sometimes they can be problematic for sewer lines. Tree roots seem to be able to find their way into any little crack, and unfortunately sewer lines are not root-proof.  If you approach house hunting like a Home Inspector,  when you see a large tree in the yard you’ll want to know if it’s near the home’s main drain line. If so, you’ll want to be sure that the drain line is checked before you buy the house and periodically after you move in. This is done with a camera at the end of a long line fed into the main drain. Repair for a clogged sewer line can range from cleaning the pipe with a device that chops up the roots, to excavating the yard and replacing a badly damaged pipe.

    Another piece of the plumbing puzzle that you should be aware of is the weeping tile and ground water disposal system. It’s not really part of the plumbing system, but deals with water and waste management, so I’ll mention it here. In newer homes, weeping tile collects ground water around the house and allows it to flow into a sump pit under the basement, or crawl space. The water is then pumped away, hopefully to a location that prevents flow back toward the house.  This system may or may not be present in older homes, or weeping tile may be present but just feed into the main sewer system. As you look at homes with a Home Inspector’s eye, you should try to get an understanding of the system present in the home so that you know what can go wrong and the consequences. The consequences can range from having rain water collect in your basement or crawl space, to having sewage from the municipal sewer back up into your home. Neither is pleasant.

    So, we’ve talked about some serious issues and haven’t even mentioned the inside of the home yet. The previous points were more about being aware and asking the right questions. Let’s look at ways you can use a home inspector’s eye when looking inside the home. As I said in the opening comments, you really want to make sure 1) that you have adequate water supply- so, test the water flow. Open a faucet and see if the force and flow of water is what you expect. Does hot water come out in a reasonable time and at a reasonable temperature.  The second question we asked was “Does the waste water and human waste leave the building?”. When you test the water flow, watch how the drain operates- does the basin or kitchen sink fill up even when the stopper is not in place? Does it empty reasonably quickly? Flush the toilet- does it operate properly?

    The waste venting system is something most people aren’t even aware of and fewer understand it. It allows waste flowing through the drains to push the air out of the way and continue flowing down to the sewer without any back pressure. You may have seen a pipe sticking through the roof of the average house. This is a vent that allows that air to escape and it is connected to all drains in some way. It also allows a release of suction above the waste, so that the water in the traps (U-shaped feature in drains below the sink or basin) is maintained and isn’t sucked down with the waste. This is important because it keeps a separation between the air in the drains and the house air, so that sewer gasses aren’t allowed into the home. I wouldn’t expect you to do any sort of inspection of the venting system, and even if you wanted to, most of it is hidden in the walls so you can’t see it. But you can use your nose and ears. If there is an issue with the venting system, you may be able to smell sewer gas and hear some distinctive sounds when water is flowing into the drains. Unusually loud gurgling or sucking sounds (like the sound that is normally heard when a toilet flushes) when the last of the water disappears, could mean that the suction caused by the waste flow is sucking the water out of the trap.

    The third item on our list was to make sure that everything stays where it is supposed to. That means that all connections must be made properly and pipes are secured and supported. You probably won’t do an in-depth inspection of the connections- a home inspector would be more thorough. But you can make sure to handle all of the faucets and fixtures to ensure they are fitted tightly in place and secure. You can look under sinks and bathroom vanities to see if there are any signs of leaks. Especially look around all the edges and corners of shower enclosures, tubs and below toilets to see if there are any signs of water damage. If you are able to go into the basement or crawl space, look for signs of water stains, rust, or anything that indicates that water has had an effect on the building components.

    Finally, you should take a good look at the water heater if you can. Look at the general condition, but especially look at the top and bottom of the unit. If the tank is gas or oil heated, there will be a venting system that takes the combustion gases out of the house. Look for signs that these vents are damaged, corroded or scorched. The damage you see at the top of the tank could be an indication of related issues where the flame hits the tank at the bottom. Another feature near the top is the Temperature/Pressure relief valve. This is a valve, usually on the side near the top, that will release pressure if the temperature controls fail and the tank overheats. It’s not unusual for these valves to leak and/or corrode. There should be a plastic tube connected to this valve that discharges near the floor (so that if the valve releases steam or hot water it will blast it at the floor, not at someone standing beside it). Look for corrosion on the valve and a water stain near the bottom of the tube. Both are signs that the valve may be leaking.  You’ll want to have it checked carefully so that you can replace it (or the entire tank) before it fails and causes a flood. But DO NOT TEST THE VALVE.  We encourage home owners to test it regularly to ensure it works. But these valves are notorious for sticking because people don’t test them regularly. I was mentioning this to a client once and he reached over and tested it. We spent the next 15 minutes trying to stop it from leaking and then cleaning up the water.

    At the bottom of the tank there should be a valve or faucet that can be used to flush the tank periodically, which can help to make it last longer. Look for signs of leaks here as well. Any other rust or signs of water damage around the tank should raise alarm bells. The failure of a water heater creates an unexpected expense at a time when home buyers are already spending a lot. But since failure can mean the release of a lot of hot water into the area, the possibility of secondary damage and additional expenses is heightened. The water heater is something every home owner should consider a high priority for ”keeping an eye on”.

    We’ve talked about a number of things that you can be aware of and can look for as you walk through a home with the approach of a home inspector. But hopefully this discussion has also impressed on you that the parts of a plumbing system are complex and have to work together for everything to work properly.  A Home Inspector will be trained to understand the details of those components, how they fit together, how they typically fail, and signs that indicate failure or the potential for failure. For example, there are details about how a trap in the waste plumbing is configured that ensure that the flow and vents will allow the waste to leave smoothly, but will also end up with water remaining in the trap. Poor design can result in the trap being siphoned out and sewer gases getting into the home, or conversely the trap could clog and result in the back up of water/waste into the home.

    When there are signs that the systems aren’t working properly, a good Home Inspector will call for further evaluation or repair by a qualified plumber. Codes have changed over time, and materials and methods also change. A qualified professional plumber knows the details of these changes and the best solution to correct a problem. They will work with the proper permits to ensure that the work is not only done right, but that it is documented to satisfy the municipality and avoid issues later.

    Water has a way of getting into areas you wouldn’t think possible. A home’s plumbing systems are mostly hidden, so damage can occur over time and multiply without the occupants knowing about it. By being aware of the issues and looking at a house with the approach of a Home Inspector, you may be able to spot issues and assess their implications (and associated costs) before you decide to make it your home.

     

    Steven Schroeder 2016-11-27

  • How to House Hunt Like a Home Inspector Heating Part 2

    How to House Hunt Like a Home Inspector Heating Part 2

    How to House Hunt Like a Home Inspector Heating Part 2

     

    In the series House Hunt Like a Home Inspector, we’re looking at how prospective home buyers can use the perspective of a home inspector to get to know the house better.  See other posts at www.http://goldeyehi.ca/blog/

    We’ve already started by splitting heating into two groups of systems: Those that generate heat and distribute it throughout a home, and those that generate and deliver heat in the same location. In the previous installment, we looked at the first group. See that post here http://goldeyehi.ca/2016/10/17/house-hunt-like-a-home-inspector_heating-1/

    We’ll consider the second group today. But this is still a big discussion topic because there are a wide variety of heaters. We’ll discuss everything from electric baseboard heaters to various configurations of space heaters to wood burning fireplaces and stoves

    As indicated in the first heating discussion, when you’re looking for a house the first thing you should do is to simply think about the heating needs for a home in the region you are moving to. We talked about considering the size of the house, the typical weather conditions and your lifestyle. The costs of different energy sources and greenhouse gas emissions are becoming increasingly important as well. The key point is that you want a heating system that will be sufficient to keep you and your family warm on the coldest day of the year.

    We said that you should look for a heat supply to every part of the house. If all your heat source is one that produces and delivers heat at the same location in the home, there are two questions to think about.

    1) Are there heat generating devices in every room of the home? These could be electric baseboards, electric fireplaces or stoves for example.

    Or, If not

    2) Will the heat produced by the unit in question push the heat out to the entire home. This could be a wall or floor “furnace” with a blower fan, or a centrally located wood burning stove or fireplace.  The larger the home, and the more rooms to be heated, the less likely a centrally located system will serve the whole house.

    Often there is a combination of centrally located wood burning device with supplemental perimeter electric heaters in other rooms. In any case, you should think about whether the system in place will keep you comfortable. If you are looking for a house during the winter season, be aware of the temperature of different rooms and you’ll likely have your answer. Cold floors near the exterior walls are another problem to look for. This is often related to the insulation and vapour barrier rather than the heating system, but placement of the perimeter heaters along the exterior walls near windows can help alleviate this issue.

    Digging a little deeper, you can look at the source of the heat, the heater or the fireplace. The first thing you should be looking for is the condition of the unit. Let’s consider electric systems first and apply some of the same measures as we did in the previous post.

    Is it dirty, damaged, rusted, or scorched? Does it look new or old? Does it appear to have been maintained well. The reliability of electric heating systems can be very good, but depends on how well they have been treated. If dirty or dusty, they will be less efficient and can be a fire hazard. If damaged or rusted, they will likely have a shorter lifespan.  If it’s a system with a blower fan, there may also be a filter and there is usually a grille. These should be cleaned regularly to maintain efficiency and safety as well.

    In wood burning units, whether fireplaces or stoves, we think about the elements of combustion just as we did for gas and oil. Fuel, fire and oxygen combine to produce heat and combustion gases including carbon monoxide and water (in the form of steam). Forced air furnaces separate the house air from the combustion gases and transfer the heat through a heat exchanger. But fireplaces and stoves are often open to the home so it is even more important to have a good venting system to remove the toxic combustion gases from the house. The chimney or stove pipes must draw the hot gases away from the house and use the home’s oxygen supply for the fire (newer systems may be set up to draw in outside air for combustion). Note that this fresh air must come from somewhere, so good ventilation of the home is a must.

    When looking at wood stoves, look for vents (stove pipes) above the units that are poorly supported, disconnected, damaged or rusted. These will require repair or replacement. Look at fireplace chimney masonry or damage or crumbling. These could be signs of a problem with the chimney liner and potential for combustion gases to enter the home. Also, look for a white or yellow residue on the surface. This could be efflorescence, a mineral deposit caused by moisture migrating through the masonry. This could be a sign of a leak at the roof or a damaged chimney liner.

    Look for signs of soot on walls or ceilings near the fire chamber or pipes. This is a sign that smoke is entering the home, rather than passing up the vent pipes or chimney. It’s not uncommon for a little smoke to enter the home as a fire catches hold, but as the venting system warms it should draw better. Extensive soot stains may indicate a problem with the venting system or even a plugged chimney.

    Finally, with wood burning systems there is a greater need to ensure that all components from the unit itself to the vent pipes have sufficient clearance from any flammable materials. Scorched floors and walls near improperly installed wood stoves are not uncommon and always scary. Look for wood floors that extend all the way up to the fireplace or under the stove. Installation of non-flammable heath may be required.

    Be careful making any assumptions about wood burning stoves and fireplaces. They are complicated and may be designed in ways that are hard to understand completely. Look for the signs, and if you see anything that causes concern, find someone with more expertise to investigate further

    A home inspector will take the visual inspection done by an astute home buyer and raise it to a higher level. Details about position and support of vents and ducts, clearances from flammable materials, and appropriateness of the materials themselves are items the home inspector should have studied and learned through experience. The home inspector will look at as much of the inside of the heating chamber and venting system as they can. They’ll look at the blower fan and elements of electric heaters for signs of any issues. If the data plate is accessible, they may be able to determine the age of the unit.

    But as I said in the previous post, heating systems are complicated, variable and changing all the time. Codes relating to how they are configured are also changing. It’s hard to keep up with all the details, so wherever something is questionable, a good home inspector will defer to HVAC (Heating ventilation air conditioning) specialists. A trained HVAC technician will go much farther than a home inspector can. The HVAC technician has the specialized knowledge to completely dismantle the system and assess all the parts. They are trained in the design of air distribution systems. They know when a vent or a duct system is not configured properly and how to correct it to make the home safer or to make sure the system is operating efficiently and providing the best comfort to the occupants.

    I’ll add a note about WETT inspections here. Wood Energy Technology Transfer is a designation for those trained specifically in the design, installation, maintenance, and inspection of wood burning products. You can read more about the organization here. http://www.wettinc.ca/what.html If you want a full assessment of the wood burning system in a home, please be sure that you contact a company with WETT certified personnel.

     

    Steven Schroeder 2016-10-28

     

  • How to House Hunt Like a Home Inspector Heating Part 1

    How to House Hunt Like a Home Inspector Heating Part 1

    How to House Hunt Like a Home Inspector Heating Part 1

     

    In this series we’re looking at how prospective home buyers can look at the home’s systems with the eyes, or at least the approach of a home inspector to learn more about the house. In this installment, we’ll start looking at heating systems. But this is a huge topic because there are so many types of heating systems. We’ll discuss everything from electric space heaters to fireplaces and wood stoves to furnaces and boilers, but not all today.

    Let’s consider heating as two groups of systems: Those that generate heat and distribute it throughout a home, and those that generate and deliver heat in the same location. We’ll consider the first group today. This group includes furnaces that deliver heated air through ducts and registers, and boilers that deliver hot water or steam through pipes to radiators, baseboards or convectors (wall mounted units similar to radiators that can serve heating and/or cooling systems) or through radiant heating pipes. The energy source for the furnace or boiler can be gas, oil, electricity or even wood. We’ll skip wood for the time being.

    When you’re looking for a house there are some things you can do to assess these kinds of heating systems. The first is to simply determine the heating needs in the region you are moving to. In Canada, where I live, all houses need to be heated part of the year. The size of the house, the typical weather conditions and your lifestyle all play a part in the size and type of heating system you will want. The costs of different energy sources and greenhouse gas emissions are becoming increasingly important as well. In general, although you won’t need it every day, you want a heating system that will be sufficient to keep you and your family warm on the coldest day of the year.

    As you’re walking through a house, look for a heat supply to every part of the house. You’ll look for registers for forced air systems or radiators, convectors or baseboards for water or steam systems. If the furnace or boiler isn’t delivering heat to a room, the occupants of the room won’t be comfortable, especially in the cold Canadian Prairie winters where I grew up. When a furnace supplies warm air through registers, be sure that there is an opportunity for air to escape the room as well.  This is usually a cold air return grille that returns to the furnace through the return ducts. But if this is absent in room in an older home, be sure that the door has a gap at the bottom to allow air to be pushed out into the rest of the home. If there is no way for air to get out of the room, air pressure inside the room can increase and prevent the warm air from getting into the room.

    If you are looking for a house during the winter season, be aware of the temperature of different rooms. If heat is being delivered to some parts of the house but not others, you can often tell, depending on how severe your winter is.  This can be due to a poorly designed duct system, or damaged or disconnected ducts or plugged pipes. Cold floors near the exterior walls are another problem to look for, but this is often related to the insulation and vapour barrier rather than the heating system.

    Where hot water or steam heat is used, especially in an old home, it is not uncommon to find rooms that are not served through a radiator, convector or baseboard unit. In these rooms be sure to look for a thermostat or an indication that another heat supply like radiant (in-floor or ceiling) or electric baseboard heat is present. If there is no heat supply to the room, you may want to consider the cost of adding it when you consider the purchase price, or invest heavily in some warm quilts.

    Digging a little deeper, you can look at the source of the heat, the furnace or boiler. The first thing you should be looking for is the condition of the unit. Is it dirty, damaged, rusted, or scorched? Does it look new or old? Consider how the energy source is getting to the furnace or boiler. If gas, take a look at the gas pipes for any obvious issues or damage. If oil, you must consider the delivery pipe and the storage tank (in a few areas municipal oil supply pipes supply the oil but this is not usually the case). Oil tank removal can be a big environment concern if buried outside, but still carries some cost if inside the home. There is also a risk of leaks if inside the house. Any sign of damage, leaks, corrosion, or even just poor support are things you should be concerned about.

    If it’s an electric furnace, the condition of the cabinet doesn’t always tell you everything. It is generally better (and safer) if a furnace has been maintained and cleaned regularly. But, electric furnaces are a bit tricky to predict. There can be reduced capacity (less heat produced) if individual elements fail but total failure can occur without warning signs. They generally last until they don’t. If it looks quite old, you can factor that into the cost of buying and living in the home. But you might, maybe, perhaps get many more years out of the furnace. But there is no heat exchanger in an electric unit as there is in a combustion (gas, oil or wood) furnaces or boilers, so you don’t have to worry about poor performance having the same health risks.

    In combustion based units, we have to think about the elements of combustion. Fuel, fire and oxygen combine to produce heat and combustion gases including carbon monoxide and water (in the form of steam). If the unit is igniting, there is fire and probably a good fuel source. Furnaces are designed to separate the house air that circulates to warm the house, from the hot combustion gases. They transfer the heat through a heat exchanger that separates the two. This is often a coated metal sheet that is shaped to make the air on either side flow along passages that transfer as much heat as possible. In boilers, the heat is transferred to water that distributes the heat. In either case, there must be a good venting system to remove the toxic combustion gases from the house. Look for vents above the units that are poorly supported, disconnected, damaged or rusted. These will require improvement and may be a sign that furnace or boiler replacement is required. In newer high efficiency units there may only be plastic pipes that bring fresh air from outside and take the combustion gases (which are typically not as hot as in conventional units) out.

    Looking for a scorched cabinet was mentioned earlier. This could be a sign that the heat exchanger has developed a hole and hot combustion gas is escaping. Or it could be a sign that there is a problem at the burner and the flames are directed where they shouldn’t be. Air supply can also be an issue if it draws house air to supply the flame (newer high efficiency sealed combustion units bring outside air to supply the flame). If there is insufficient house air getting to the flame the result will be poor, inefficient combustion. But worse, it can cause low pressure in the house resulting in combustion gases being directed into the house instead of up the chimney. This can be dangerous. Look for older units in small spaces with no grilles allowing air in.

    But be careful making any assumptions about furnaces and boilers, especially combustion based units. These are complicated devices that have intricate designs that the layperson won’t be able to understand completely. Look for the warning signs, but always get someone with more expertise to evaluate before you make any definite judgements. Some units in situations that look questionable are designed to operate under those conditions and perform very well. Other units that look beautiful may not be functioning correctly for a variety of reasons that only a specialist will be able to identify.

    A home inspector will take the visual inspection done by an astute home buyer and raise it to a higher level. Details about position and support of vents and ducts, clearances from flammable materials, appropriateness of the materials themselves are items the home inspector should have studied and learned through experience. Looking at the furnace or boiler itself, the home inspector will remove the covers to look at as much of the burners and heat exchanger as they can. They’ll look at the blower fan, belts and motor for signs of any issues. They’ll assess the performance of the venting system and look for signs that the chimney liner is in distress or has failed. They’ll usually be able to determine the age of the unit and provide some advice about how long the unit will typically last. They probably won’t give a very precise number of years though. No one can predict the future with heating systems.

    Finally, they will usually be able to determine the capacity of the system and may make a comment on whether the unit is considered sufficient for climatic conditions typically seen in the region.

    But heating systems are complicated, variable and changing all the time. Codes relating to how they are configured are also changing. It’s hard to keep up with all the details, so wherever something is questionable, a good home inspector will defer to HVAC (Heating ventilation air conditioning) specialists. A trained HVAC technician will go much farther than a home inspector can. The HVAC technician has the specialized knowledge to completely dismantle the system and assess all the parts. They are trained in the design of air distribution systems. They know when a vent or a duct system is not configured properly and how to correct it to make the home safer or to make sure the system is operating efficiently and providing the best comfort to the occupants.

     

    Steven Schroeder 2016-10-16

  • How to House Hunt Like a Home Inspector -Cooling/Heat Pumps

    How to House Hunt Like a Home Inspector -Cooling/Heat Pumps

    How to House Hunt Like a Home Inspector -Cooling/Heat Pumps

     

    As I write this post, it’s the middle of a very cold winter where I live in Canada. So why would I be thinking about cooling systems at a time like this? Well, heat pumps that are used to heat homes are based on the same principles as air conditioners. We’ll include them in the discussion.  This is part of the series “How to House Hunt Like a Home Inspector” that talks about how home buyers can use the perspective of a home inspector to get to know the house better before they buy.  See other posts at www.http://goldeyehi.ca/blog/

    Let’s start by talking about how these systems work. It’s a complicated process and can get technical but I’ll try to summarize in general terms. This description will be considered an over-simplification by many home inspectors and technicians who work on these systems. But for the purposes of this series a more general understanding is what’s important. Cooling systems (air conditioners) and heat pumps work in the same way but in opposite directions. They extract heat from one environment and dump it to another- usually in the opposite direction of what seems natural. For cooling the house, heat is extracted from the house and dumped into the warmer outside air. For heating the house, the heat is extracted from cooler outside air and dumped into the house.  How is this possible? It’s possible because of the properties of the gas in the system’s pipes. When it is compressed, it gets hotter and when the pressure is released it gets cooler.

    Let’s look at how this works in the air conditioning system. Outside of the house, there is usually a compressor and coil of some sort. The compressor compresses the gas (actually turns it to liquid) which makes it heat to a temperature that is higher than the warm outside air temperature. The air outside is then used to cool this hot liquid down (ie the heat is dumped outside). Next, the pressure is released from the liquid which makes it even colder. Then back in the house, it is used to cool the house air (ie the house heat is transferred to the gas). There are a lot of variations on this theme, including heat pumps that work in the reverse direction- extracting heat from cooler outside air and dumping it into the house. Some systems use water, rather than air as the source to extract heat from or the target to dump heat to, inside or outside the home. Some systems are reversible and can do both. Geothermal systems, for example, can capture or dump heat to ground water depending on whether it’s the heating or cooling season.

    As I said, it’s complicated. So how on earth is the average person supposed to be able to view this with the eye of a home inspector? Well, you don’t have to know the details about how a system works to watch for issues. Just keep in mind two things; 1) What the system designed to do (cool and/or heat the house) and 2) There are almost always two parts to the system, the one inside and the one outside.

    So, when walking through a house that you’re interested in buying, be aware of the temperature- is the system doing its job? Are there areas that feel excessively warm or cool? Obviously, you can’t assess a cooling system’s effectiveness in the middle of winter, but you can look at the parts of the system to see if there are any visible issues.

    The outside part of air conditioning system may use air flow to transfer heat or may use water from a lake, river or in the ground (geothermal). Water based systems are specialized technology and you probably won’t be able to see enough to inspect it properly. It would be wise to have water based systems properly inspected by a qualified HVAC (heat ventilation air conditioning) technician with experience in the specific type of system found in the home.

    Cooling systems that use exterior air for the heat transfer usually have a unit sitting on the ground or mounted on the exterior wall of the home. If it isn’t buried in deep snow cover, take a minute to take a closer look at the unit. The lifespan and reliability of the unit is usually related to how well it has been maintained. If it’s for cooling only, it should be covered in winter. All exterior units should be kept clean and free from overgrowing plants and debris to ensure good air flow and efficient heat exchange. It should be kept level to protect the compressor and ensure it works efficiently. Does it look old, dirty or corroded? Are there any signs of oil leaks (coolant gas may have leaked and the system may need recharging)? How close is the unit to any vents that might be discharging heat from a clothes dryer, fireplace or furnace? These can make the system less efficient if both are operating at the same time, or can result in condensation, frost and ultimately corrosion.

    If you’re house hunting during the cooling season (summer) and the system is operating, try to be close to the unit as it’s operating. Listen for excess vibration or noise. Also take note if the unit is operating continuously or is turning on and off at short intervals. These may be signs that the system is sized incorrectly. There are several other issues that might trigger these symptoms and you should have a qualified HVAC technician service the system.

    Inside the home, the heat exchange may occur at a furnace air handler (central air conditioner) or a dedicated fan unit mounted on a wall (split systems). In both cases, you can look for a couple of issues. There will usually be some condensation created when air is cooled, and there should be a condensate drain and sometimes a pump will be required. You can often see signs of condensation leaks on the side of a furnace below the condensate drain line. Since this is usually above the air distribution fan and heat exchanger of the furnace, there is risk of corrosion damage to the heating system. You’ll want to make sure this is dealt with quickly.

    If there is a pump to handle the condensate, check that all the lines are connected all the way to the drain and that there are no signs of leaks. Like hidden plumbing leaks, condensate drain leaks can exist for a long time before discovered and can cause ca lot of damage.

    We’ve talked about some things that you can be aware of and can look for as you walk through a home with the approach of a home inspector. But cooling/heat pump systems are complex and it’s not always easy to figure out what each part does.  A Home inspector is trained to understand the systems, how they typically fail, and how to spot the signs of issues.  They can alert you to potential problems that may not be evident when you are house hunting.  When there are signs that the systems aren’t working properly, a good Home Inspector will call for further evaluation or repair by a qualified specialist, in this case an HVAC technician.

    A qualified HVAC technician knows the specifications and requirements of individual systems and the best solution to correct problems. They will work with the proper permits to ensure that the work is not only done right, but that it is documented to satisfy the municipality and avoid issues later.

    Cooling and heating systems provide occupants with a comfortable environment to live in. But we rarely think about them when they are working correctly or when they are not needed. By being aware of the issues and looking at a house with the approach of a home inspector, you may be able to spot issues and assess their implications (and associated costs) before you decide to make it your home.

    Steven Schroeder 2017-01-02

     

     

  • How to House Hunt Like a Home Inspector -Insulation/Ventilation

    How to House Hunt Like a Home Inspector -Insulation/Ventilation

    How to House Hunt Like a Home Inspector -Insulation/Ventilation

     

    The subjects of this post may be the systems of the home that have changed the most over the years, but are thought about the least by the occupants of the home- at least if the insulation and ventilation are doing their jobs.  This series “How to House Hunt Like a Home Inspector” discusses how home buyers can use the perspective of a home inspector to get to know the house better before they buy.  See other posts at www.http://goldeyehi.ca/blog/

    Before talking about how a house hunter can view the home with the eye of a home inspector, I think it’s important to talk about the history of insulation and ventilation in home building practices. In the not too distant past, most homes were drafty and poorly insulated. If you were cold you added more fuel to your heat source, usually a fire, or you wrapped yourself in a heavier blanket. If you were too warm, you wore fewer clothes, opened the windows and stayed out of the sun. Buildings used shade and air movement to keep the occupants cool.  In areas where heating was required, ventilation was not as great a concern since air naturally exchanged through building materials that were more loosely connected than we see today.

    As technology improved and heating or cooling costs increased, and a greater awareness of the need for greener technology developed,  consideration was given to preventing heat transfer in or out of a home by insulating walls and roofs. The concept of R-factor (R for resistance to heat transfer) became common in building vocabulary. As this was understood better, builders realized the importance of heat transfer through air leakage. So, the building envelope was made tighter and air/vapor barriers (usually a plastic sheet wrapping the inside of the building) were used to reduce air movement through the walls or ceiling. Most homes were still somewhat leaky though, and bathroom and kitchen fans pushing air out of the home, allowed fresh air to be drawn in to replace it.

    High efficiency furnaces and boilers are now used to reduce the loss of interior air up the chimney and newer windows and doors are installed with perimeter sealant (often spray foam) to prevent as much air transfer as possible.  But this efficiency created a problem. If a home was too tight, the moist, stale air created by cooking, bathing and human activity could not escape. If there was a temperature difference between the inside and outside, condensation could form on or in the walls or roof. Wet or humid environments inside a home, or wet building materials in walls and roofs are ideal for the growth of mold and mildew and builders began to see problems arising in otherwise well built homes.  The field of study of indoor air quality was born.

    Nowadays, it is understood that insulation and ventilation are both necessary to keep a home feeling comfortable. Building practices have changed so that heat recovery ventilators (HRV) have become common in new homes. These units recovery heat from air that is being expelled and transfer the heat to fresh air being brought in. As this transfer is made, moisture can be removed or added to the air as needed.

    So, this is a pretty complex balancing act. How can you expect the average house hunter to know what to look for when viewing a property for the first time? And what if it isn’t a new home? How can you tell if the insulation has been upgraded, if the air/vapor barrier provides a tight envelope, or if there is ventilation provided? Well, it is complex and you can’t possibly see everything during a short house hunting visit. But if you use the approach of a home inspector, there are some things that you can look for to warn you of possible issues with the home.

    For ventilation, there are a few things you can look (or rather smell for). Does the air smell fresh or does it smell stale, or worse, musty. Test the bathroom and kitchen fans, if present, to see if they are really drawing air (you can use a piece of torn tissue to see if it is drawn toward the fan). If there is a kitchen fan hood, check for a cabinet above to see if there is any ducting to take air to the outside of the home. You might not be able to see the actual ducts. But if there isn’t even a bulkhead or chase where a duct could be hidden, you’ll know it isn’t there. Check also around doors and windows to see if there are signs of condensation. Poor ventilation will allow moisture to build up within the home. During cold weather, it will typically condense where the coldest surfaces are, at doors and windows. Finally, if you look around the furnace or boiler area check for a large box with ducting coming out in several directions. This could be a heat recovery ventilator that draws and discharges air to/from different places both within and outside of the house. Read whatever labels you can see to confirm this!

    Insulation is also difficult to assess. Assuming you’re not going to be climbing into the attic, the best place to look for insulation, and sometimes as importantly a vapor barrier, is the basement. Look at the edges of unfinished spaces to see if there is any sign of insulation or a clear plastic sheet that acts as a vapor barrier. On upper floors, if it is very cold outside, you can often tell if there is a lack of insulation between the floor joists at the edge of the house just by walking around the perimeter. Floors that become very cold near exterior walls may be a sign of poor insulation. Look around doors and windows to see if the seams where they meet the walls have been caulked or sealed. Preventing air movement through exterior walls of old homes can go a long way to making it feel more comfortable, and saving energy.

    The components of the building envelope are designed and put together to provide occupants with a comfortable environment to live in. But we rarely think about them when they are working correctly or when they are not needed. By being aware of the issues and looking at a house with the approach of a home inspector, you may be able to spot issues and assess their implications (and associated costs) before you decide to make it your home.

    If you have any comments or questions on this or other posts, or on any building topics, please use the comments section. We’d love to hear from you!!

     

    Steven Schroeder 2016-10-18

  • Can You House Hunt Like a Home Inspector? The Electrical System

    Can You House Hunt Like a Home Inspector? The Electrical System

    Can You House Hunt Like a Home Inspector? The Electrical System

    In the introductory post of this series, “Can You House Hunt Like a Home Inspector?”, I talked about three levels of Inspection: 1) An inspection by a keen eyed House Hunter 2) A technical but still limited inspection by a Home Inspector and 3) A more detailed technical inspection by a licensed tradesperson.

    I’ll continue that theme in this installment, focussing on the home’s electrical system. But before I do, a word of caution. Be very careful when dealing with electricity. It can kill you. It’s not something to take lightly and if you are not sure about what you’re doing, leave it to someone who is.

    There are some fairly obvious things a House Hunter can look for when touring a home. Turn the lights on and off.  Look for light switches and receptacle (outlet) covers missing or damaged. Look for junction boxes (where wiring connections are made) without covers. Look for wires that are hanging unsupported below unfinished ceilings, or disconnected wires hanging loose. Or if you know what knob and tube wiring looks like, look for it in older homes.  Look for the absence of GFCI receptacles in wet areas – near the kitchen or bathroom sinks. These are issues that Home Inspectors will look for as well. They might have easy fixes, or be signs of something more serious. They can certainly be signs of an electrical system that is outdated, in disrepair, or wiring installed by DIYers. Any of these situations should get your spidey-senses tingling. If there are a number of small issues, you should be prepared to have the whole electrical system assessed by a licensed electrician.

    Another place you can get a feel for the condition of the electrical system is the main fuse or breaker panel. I won’t go into a lot of technical detail of what the Home Inspector will look for, but how it looks can be important. Are there visible signs of rust, damage, open gaps, or does it just look old? If you’re looking at breakers, do they line up evenly side by side or do they fit haphazardly? The panel may have some issues that should be investigated.

    If you want to take it a step beyond a visual inspection there are a couple of inexpensive tools that you can carry with you. Home Inspectors don’t go anywhere without them. For a disconnected wire hanging down, don’t touch it! Never assume that a wire is dead, just because there is nothing connected to it. But you can check to see if it is a live wire using a simple voltage detector. This simple device that looks similar to a pen, can be purchased for as little as $15 at a home improvement store and can save your life. Hold it near the wire where there is no exposed metal wire. If it is live, the detector will light up and chirp repeatedly. I think every home owner should have one of these detectors.

    Another device in the same price range is a simple circuit tester. It’s a required tool for a Home Inspector. It will detect some incorrect wiring conditions at the receptacle.  Simply plug it into the receptacle and see which of the tester lights illuminate. There is usually a handy guide on the device to tell you what the indicator lights mean. If you feel comfortable testing the electrical receptacles while checking out a potential new home, you can have this tool in your pocket. One word of caution. Most circuit testers also have a GFCI testing function. Don’t be tempted to use it, or the test button on the receptacle itself. You never know what else is on the circuit that you will interrupt when you trip the circuit.

     

    I won’t go into a detailed discussion of the implications of outdated, damaged or deteriorating wiring, poorly installed wiring, or damaged or missing cover plates. They range from cosmetic, to the inconvenience of an appliance not working, to personal safety, and risk of overheating and fire.  And while it’s important to take note of these details and address them when and if you buy the home, a House Hunter probably won’t see enough to affect their decision whether or not to buy.  But when you see a number of issues in the same home, it raises questions about the parts of the electrical system that you’re not seeing.

    Although I’ve described a number of things a House Hunter can look for, most of the issues with an electrical system will usually be beyond your field of view. Wiring in walls, connections inside receptacles, switches and junction boxes, and the inside of the distribution panel won’t be seen by most House Hunters.  A Home Inspector will take the inspection to a more technical level with what can be seen, and will go into areas that the House Hunter shouldn’t.

    Starting outside the home, the Home Inspector will look the wires coming from the municipality to see if they are in good condition and configured in a way that is properly supported, secured, and appropriately sized for the home. Safe clearances from the ground and buildings must be maintained. Inside the home, the Home Inspector will assess how the electrical service is connected to the main disconnect, the condition and configuration of the main service box and the condition and configuration of the breakers or fuses to ensure that they adequately protect the circuits that they serve. To perform an electrical inspection, the Home Inspector has to open the electrical panel. DON’T DO THIS unless you have electrical training.

    Without going into all the details, the Home Inspector will be looking for wiring that is showing signs of not performing adequately, has been damaged or deteriorated, or is unsafe. They will give an opinion whether there is adequate power for a modern lifestyle and whether the major appliances are served sufficiently. They will also get a feel for whether the wiring was done by a professional or not. Although a Home Inspector does not assess whether the home meets current codes, a good Home Inspector will often give an indication of when the electrical configuration is “not to current standards”.  But as I indicated in the introductory post in this series, a good Home Inspector knows their limits.

    When a Home Inspector sees non-standard configurations or wiring that is old, outdated, or blatantly wrong they will usually recommend evaluation by a licensed electrician. This is not simply passing the buck. When a licensed electrician evaluates a system they bring a level of detail and knowledge that a Home Inspector can’t provide during a limited general inspection. They have instruments that are specific to their role that can provide them with more information than a Home Inspector will typically have. The electrical codes have changed over the years and the electrician will have better knowledge of the code than a Home Inspector can. The specific details about what is required and what works best are obtained after years of training and experience. And finally, an electrician may have to investigate what is happening inside the wall and use destructive measures to make a full assessment of a circuit. A Home Inspector can’t do that.

    The electrical system can be a very daunting, scary and sometimes expensive system to deal with. A House Hunter can learn a lot about the condition of the electrical system in their initial view of the house. Following these basic procedures will help you shift your focus from how the home works for your lifestyle to how the home performs as a group of systems.

     

    Steven Schroeder 2016-09-27

  • Why a Home Inspector Didn’t Have a Home Inspection and Where It’s Going to Cost Us.

    Why a Home Inspector Didn’t Have a Home Inspection and Where It’s Going to Cost Us.

    Why a Home Inspector Didn’t Have a Home Inspection and Where It’s Going to Cost Us.

    Okay, I get it now. We Home Inspectors like to preach that everyone should get a Home Inspection. I still believe that. I still believe that when you’re spending this much money, it’s important to take the time to go through the house with a fine-toothed comb to learn about how it works and what the areas are that will need attention. A Home Inspector’s trained and practiced eye can help you stop problems before they happen, catch problems before they cost too much, or help you budget for problems that will inevitably cost you a lot of money. It’s a small investment to protect your hard-earned money.

    So why didn’t we get a home inspection when we bought our house in Guelph? Well, we had good realtors who gave us a good picture of what the market in Southern Ontario is really like. We felt lucky when our not-too-aggressive bid won over three other offers. But we knew that attaching a Home Inspection clause would put us at the back of the bus. People have said to us- “Yeah but you’re a home inspector. You could inspect the house as you viewed it”. Well it’s not that simple. First of all, you can’t carry a ladder or tools with you when you’re viewing a home or at open houses. You typically don’t get a chance to go into the attic or open the electrical panel. Second, when you’re house hunting you look at the house in terms of how it will fit your lifestyle. A home inspector follows a process to look at the condition of the home’s component systems. It’s really hard to do both of these things at the same time. Your head is in two completely different places.

    That is why I booked a local Home Inspector to inspect the house after we completed the purchase. I wanted to get a good idea of what other items would need attention before our mortgage was signed and sealed so we could make some adjustments, if needed. If some extra cash is required to correct high ticket items, I want to be prepared. Plus, I thought an unbiased set of eyes would be a good idea. Unfortunately, we ran into another issue that I didn’t expect. The seller refused to allow a home inspection even after the purchase was agreed to. That’s their right, I guess. Every home sale has its own unique set of circumstances and I guess you never know what could happen. But I still didn’t have all the answers I want about the condition of the home.

    As buyers, we did get to visit the home a couple more times before possession. If you’ve read any of our blog posts on “House Hunting Like a Home Inspector” you know there are some things you can do as you tour the home to learn more about it. I think I practiced what I preach on the first visit and there are some things I noticed that we will have to correct. We’re planning to develop a basement apartment for some rental income, so we plan to do some work on the home anyway.

    The house has an old panel with fuses, and I saw that- although I didn’t specifically look at the amperage. It turns out that it’s a 60 Amp panel and that level of power supply doesn’t meet the demands of a modern household, let alone one with a rental unit in it. So add the cost of a new panel. Well actually, we’ll probably get two separate meters, each with its own panel. On a subsequent visit I had a circuit tester with me and was pleased that almost all of the circuits were grounded, which means the wiring had been upgraded at some point. This is an important safety feature in modern wiring. But more rewiring will be required than we planned. Hopefully not too much more.

    On our first visit, I also discovered an abandoned oil tank in the basement hidden in a cupboard. I’ll pat myself on the back for that one. There are fill and vent pipes on the front of the house that are hidden behind a bush. It might have been missed even during a home inspection. On the second visit, I made an extra effort to confirm that it was empty and if there was any sign of leaking anywhere near it. It looks good so the removal will probably only cost $500. I will have to dismantle the cabinet that’s built around it so it can be removed easily. But it could have been a lot worse.

    The home is heated by a gas fired hot water heating system with radiators. There don’t appear to be any issues with the water/radiator system, but after the second view we’ve decided we’ll probably replace the boiler. It’s old and it’s a less efficient model that draws house air and vents up the chimney. Energy efficiency is important to us so we’ll replace it with at least a high efficiency boiler. So there’s another bill. If we choose to get a little more creative with the heating system it could go much higher. The hot water heating system doesn’t provide a method of cooling the home either. One thought is to install an air to air heat pump (or geothermal if it would work in a small city lot) to act as an air conditioner in summer and provide heating in fall and spring. Then supplement that with a high efficiency gas boiler for hot water heat in the really cold part of winter. You see how the costs add up?

    I also made an extra effort to get into the attic on the second visit. On the first visit, I was aware that the roofing was getting old. The asphalt shingles were curled slightly in a few areas and I had some concerns about the flashing around the chimney. I’m hoping we can get five more years out of the shingles. From the attic hatch on the second visit, I could see some staining on the chimney blocks that indicate there has been some leaking at some point in the past. It rained a lot in the days before we made our offer, so I don’t think the leak is current. But it’s something we’ll definitely look at after possession to make sure that it’s sealed properly and we get as much life out of the shingles as possible.

    I was actually delighted to see the condition and especially the height of the attic. Outside of a home inspection no one ever sees an attic before they own the house. But my eyes lit up when I saw this one. I’ve already got ideas of how we can reconfigure the house to make use of this space. If we get a high efficiency boiler we won’t need the chimney any longer and when the roofing gets replaced and while we’re at it… Hold on! We don’t even have possession yet!

    Buying a home can be scary. In this market the buyer is really vulnerable and has to be very quick to respond when a good home becomes available. But this can be a very expensive trap. My wife and I are lucky that we are in a position to deal with the surprises that this home will throw at us and I have some resources to help me detect issues before they become critical. Not everyone is as well positioned. I hope our story helps you understand how important a home inspection can be, even if you aren’t able to attach it as a condition on your offer to purchase. You can usually still request an inspection before possession to make sure you can deal with any issues that are identified.

    If you’re selling a home in this kind of market, here’s a tip to market your home. Imagine you’re a buyer coming into the home and you see an Inspection Report from a thorough home inspector, along with receipts from reputable contractors for the repairs. Don’t you think that would give them more confidence in making an offer and potentially raising the amount they’d be willing to offer. We made our offer on the house we bought with an expectation that we would have to put some extra money into the home. I know we would have felt freer to offer more if the home had been inspected and the upgrades already made. Just a thought.

    Anyone who has followed our blog posts has probably noticed that we haven’t posted on the blog for a while. Well, that’s because we’ve been moving. It turns out that moving is a lot of work and is very stressful. That’s one reason I try to provide potential homeowners with the inspection results in as calm and reasoned a manner as possible. I don’t want them to get even more stressed by information that is supposed to make the process easier for them. But I digress.

    The process of packing up and selling our home in Winnipeg and moving everything to Guelph has been a full-time job. So, the blog has been quiet for the past few months and I haven’t been available for inspections for the past few months. To our friends in Winnipeg, I’d like to thank you for your support over the past years as we established GoldEye Home Inspection. Unfortunately, we won’t be available for inspections there anymore. For residents of Guelph, Kitchener/Waterloo, Cambridge and surrounding areas, we’ll be available for inspections soon. Please be patient with us. We have a lot of stuff to unpack and some renovations to get started in our new home. I’ll try to post on the blog a little more in the future and let you know when we’re ready.

  • What Makes GoldEye Home Inspection Stand Out

    What Makes GoldEye Home Inspection Stand Out

    What Makes GoldEye Home Inspection Stand Out

    Thanks for stopping by my blog. If you’re looking for more information about GoldEye Home Inspection, you’ve come to the right place.

    About GoldEye Home Inspection

    We’re a home inspection company that offers detailed home inspection, infrared thermography, radon testing (Note: Unfortunately we no longer offer Radon Testing services- but we’d be happy to provide advice or referral for companies that do) and new construction inspection. We have also recently introduced Energy Assessments to help clients improve the energy efficiency of their homes (and get Rebates!).

    At present, it’s a solo operation and the office is in my home and I serve clients at their home or the home they’re purchasing.

    I started the business back in 2014 in Winnipeg and incorporated it in 2015. In 2017, I moved to Guelph and began providing my home inspection services here and in surrounding areas that are within an hours drive from Guelph.

    GoldEye Home Inspection is currently in a state of growth. I’m always incorporating new technology, both in the back office and report delivery as well as in the inspection process and services offered. We have also recently begun new construction inspections.

    The GoldEye Home Inspection Difference

    What sets me apart from all of my competitors is my approach. I don’t hustle. I take the time to be careful and only do one inspection per day to ensure I give our clients the most thorough inspection possible. I am also more than happy to stay back once the inspection is completed and answer any more questions that the client has.

    My approach to home inspection is to be very thorough and methodical. I use my analytical mind, follow a systematic approach and pay close attention to detail. What adds to my abilities is the courses I pursued in electrical wiring, infrared thermography and radon measurement.

    My vision for the future is to continue helping clients make informed decisions and delivering unparalleled quality home inspections.

    To learn more about GoldEye Home Inspection, please click here. If you have any questions about how I can help you, I’d love to hear from you. Please contact me here

  • Top Five Things to Look For When Hiring a Home Inspector

    Top Five Things to Look For When Hiring a Home Inspector

    Top Five Things to Look For When Hiring a Home Inspector

    Often, people are of the belief that they don’t need to get their home checked by a home inspector as they can assess it themselves, rather than spending on an inspector. However, it’s important to remember that inspectors are the trained experts. They’re the ones who know to find hidden leaks and cracks or non-functioning systems and their training and experience allows them to see a lot more than most house-hunters.

    A home inspector checks the safety of your potential new home and focuses especially on the structure, construction and mechanical systems of the house and will make you aware of any repairs that are needed. An inspector also examines the house thoroughly for non-functioning systems and will give a detailed report that forms the basis for continuing with the purchase, renegotiating the sale price, allowing the seller to make repairs, or for pulling out of the sale.

    To help you pick the right inspector, here’s a list of top five things to look for when hiring a home inspector.

    1. Member of a major association of Home Inspectors.

    The Home Inspector associations have requirements that home inspectors must have, as well as standards of practice that they must follow. Without these, you don’t know what kind of inspection you’re going to get.

    1. Qualified.

    Different associations use different terminologies so don’t get hung up on the words. Soon there will be licensing in Ontario so you’ll be able to ask if they’re licensed. However, for now, ask what qualifications their association requires and how they got them.

    1. Training.

    This is a must. Knowing about construction is part of it, however, ensure that your potential inspector also knows some things about the history of construction techniques as older homes will have older construction methods and materials. There’s also a process that inspectors follow that comes from training and experience. Field training is also important. It’s hard to get a full understanding of the inspection process from a classroom or an online course. Watching and learning from an experienced pro is so important for an inspector to learn to do it right.

    1. Number and duration of inspections in a day.

    Ask how many inspections they do in a day or at least how long the inspection will take. There are inspectors out there that will cram in five or more inspections in a day, which means they’re only spending an hour or less on your home. You have to ask yourself how focused they are on your home when they’re already planning their route to the next inspection.

    At GoldEye, we only do one inspection per day so your home is the only thing on our inspector’s mind. Our inspections typically take two and a half to three hours so that we can take a careful look at every part of the home.

    1. Judgment.

    Try to get to know the inspector a bit so you can tell how much they care. There are people in just about every industry that have the skills and knowledge but just don’t give it their best effort. Trust your gut feeling, if something doesn’t feel right when you meet with your prospective inspector, go elsewhere.

    Ask if they’ll be available after the inspection or after you’ve moved into the home to answer questions. Some inspectors may not want to have a long-term relationship with you.

    We’ve even heard of some inspectors that don’t want their clients present at the inspection. To us, half of the purpose of the inspection is to discuss the home and the components with the client so they understand them properly. That’s the only way clients can ensure issues are addressed and, in the long term, properly maintain the home. The ultimate goal of the inspector should be to help you get the most out of your home and have it perform well for as long as possible.

    If you or someone you know is looking out for a home inspector in Guelph, Kitchener, Waterloo, Burlington, Hamilton, Brantford, Cambridge, and Milton, contact GoldEye Home Inspection. We look at how the home’s systems perform, rather than design or cosmetic issues. To know more about services that we provide, please click here. If you’ve any questions pertaining to home inspection,get in touch with us by clicking here.